We are back on the rails again, this time headed West. Currently we are heading through the western half of Alberta, somewhere between Edmonton and Jasper. Outside the window there is snow, lots and lots of snow, and it finally feels like December. The sun is abundant and reflects off of every icy surface triumphantly. It is almost 11am. We should hit the mountains in the early afternoon.
This journey started yesterday at noon. I boarded with a reluctant and cumbersome heart, having found out the evening prior that my Dad is sick. As I boarded the train he began a grueling schedule of tests. Between yesterday morning and tomorrow afternoon he will have experienced every medical test I have ever heard of. And what will they find. We all know what they are looking for.
I didn't want to leave home.
As David drove us to the train station yesterday morning he asked me the first thing I would do once I sat down on the train. He knows how much I love the sanctuary of the train. I wasn't sure though, what I would do. So I said that I would probably do nothing. I would probably just sit there. Oh, and I was planning on calling my mom before we left. What happened in actuality, David, was I called my mom while we were waiting to board. She sounded grave and she had no good news from the morning of tests. She told me that Dad prayed for a safe trip for us, and that he was excited for us. She told me that Dad wanted us to try to not think about what is happening, how they are preparing for surgery. So when I did sit down on the train I looked out the window and I just started to cry. I think it was because the Via employees kept shuffling us around. I just wanted to be alone so badly and then they'd be like
can you go sit over there instead and then I got re-settled and then they asked us to move a second time and in doing so I just felt it all coming up -- my eyes squinting, my throat tightening, my clenched jaw. I just really wanted to tell them to
fuck right off, but as that surge of anger - about everything - passed, I sat down and it just started and then I couldn't really stop. The train rolled right past my mom and dad's road and I think I left my heart there for the time being. I know I couldn't really do anything if I stayed home, but at least I could sit with my mom. Make them some nice meals and just relax. That's what I should be doing, I think, in a way. But he told me to go, so I went.
The train is full of weird, weird people. It is an extremely different energy that the train to Toronto. There is one man, who has been coined German Jesus. He is from Germany, but has been traveling for months. He told us that he was in South America. He came up through the States, Southwest corner to the North East. He got beat up by some American border guards in Maine (?) apparently. He has written an essay about the encounter, which supposedly took place on Nov 11th. He is circulating the essay around the train, he also hands out candy to people. I don't take candy from strangers. Anyways, he is getting off at Jasper and then taking the train north to Prince Rupert and then he is taking a barge to Victoria...I don't know what he's doing after that. When I was crying yesterday morning he sat in the one seat with a vantage point and watched me for a few minutes and then told me that there was someone looking out for me. Thanks pal, please go away. He wears Birkenstocks with no socks and his feet smell.
German Jesus has taken up with the other certified bananas passenger who everyone has started calling Old Prospector. He sits up in the dome car with his huge navy suitcase full of papers. He has some scraps of ginger hair topped off with a matted blond toupee. He speaks at a yelling volume and claims to be the president, CEO & CFO of a multi-billion dollar American company. He is worried that we are behind schedule (we're not) and that if the train doesn't hurry up he will have to call his personal helicopter to get him to him International shareholders meeting on time. He yells out things like "Facebook is up 30%!" and muses about Bill Gates' mistakes. He also says things to the Via staff (who are keeping a very close eye on him) like "You should work for my company with your fantastic customer service!!" and you can't tell if he is being sarcastic. At one point while Scott and I were up in the dome car the Prospector and German Jesus were sitting together and as GJ showed Old Prospector his essay the old man asked "What is this word?" to which GJ replies "Reality" and OP said, surprised "I've never seen that word!" It sort of feels like they could almost be a part of a Sasha Baron Coen-scale prank. But there are no cameras, so...?
Yesterday evening, just as we were getting our Scrabble game under way in the dome car, we met Steve and Chris. Steve and Chris are two 18-year olds from Oakville, Ontario. They are headed to the Okanagan for some snowboarding and hot-tubbing. They spent almost $30 on beers in the half an hour or so that we chatted with them. They told us about the 2-hour stop-over they had in Winnipeg, and how they had walked around the Forks and been really impressed by the skate park. They told us about all the things they collectively hate about Ontario. Here's a few other things we learned about Steve & Chris:
-- Steve's clutch on his '95 Eagle Talon is burned out because of his fat friend Paul (his words)
-- Chris' Ford Windstar runs poorly but fits lots of people. He took the middle seats out.
-- Oakville has nothing for teenaged people to do, but has lots of nice trees.
-- People in Oakville are obsessed with money and showing off. Everyone has either a Porsche, Jag or 5-series Beamer. Steve says they are so easy to come by that they have lost all of their allure.
-- Steve likes Dead Prez but Chris doesn't. He likes CCR.
-- Chris didn't know about roaming charges on his phone. He is going to give the "cell phone people" a piece of his mind if he has lots of roaming charges.
-- All the clothing stores in Oakville are too expensive.
-- There is no movie theatre in Oakville. They have to take the Go Train to Burlington or Mississauga if they want to see a movie.
-- Steve thought it was totally crazy that I pulled 4 R's out of the Scrabble bag at once. (I thought it was pretty bonkers, too)
-- Chris refers to drinking a beer as "crushing one".
As we left the dome car to get some sleep Steve and Chris were busy taking funny pictures together on Photobooth on Steve's Mac. Precious.
Tonight we're going to have a train meal, watch more Bored to Death, and hopefully pull of drinking a glass of wine or two...hard to believe that we're more than half way...
6:45pm Pacific TimeThe train is quiet now, after a busy afternoon. We picked up a few dozen British and American tourists in Edmonton who rode with us through the morning, to Jasper. Women and men armed with digital cameras and expectation. As we approached the mountains the dome car filled and cameras spontaneously were lifted blindly into the air. I know that this will make me seem like a gargantuan photo snob, but the joy of the latest in digital photo technology is the large display screens on the cameras, which allow you to see the photos that your neighbors are taking. And man, I feel sorry for all the folks at home who will sit in their Alabama living rooms forced to see these photo journals. I'm pretty sure Scott and I made it into more than one.
The British folks were an absolute joy, seriously they put on a workshop in cheering up without even trying. The dry sense of humor. We sat in the dome car in the afternoon sunlight carving through mountains, listening to Old Prospector tell anyone in earshot (ie. everyone) about his life as a physicist. How he met Jesus. How Jesus went into his head and told him things. About his travels in China, how in China they eat everything that moves, and Scott's favorite, his theory about the black hole that is about to swallow up Earth. The smirks and looks traveled from one person to the next and before I knew it, everyone was laughing. It was contagious. Thankfully he didn't catch on, which was good. No one was laughing at him, exactly, but you just couldn't help from laughing at these claims...it got better and better. The middle-aged woman (who looked the way I imagine Princess Diana would look like now, if she were still alive) sitting in front of me broke the camels back for me. She kept shushing her husband (who was in tears laughing) but the more she shushed him the harder it was becoming for her to not laugh herself...just seeing how hard a time he was having trying to stop. When she broke, I broke. It was a moment of collective, spontaneous joy and it was a tremendous thing to experience.
We arrived in Jasper in the early afternoon, pleasantly surprised to discover that we had a two hour stop. We walked around, neither of us having ever seen the town. The sun was warm and very bright. We found a little pub filled to the brim with taxidermied mounted animal heads, televisions and NHL memorabilia. We shared some nachos and Pepsi and then made our way outside to walk around some more, each with a can of wine. We each bought a pair of mitts as our hands were way cold and we didn't bring any mitts. We parted ways with German Jesus, who we found out is actually Swiss. Before he left he came over and told me that it was great to see me laughing (earlier in the dome car - he was a part of the laughing). Yes, I made it to laughing from crying in 24 short hours. You will be okay, he said. With that we shook hands and I won't ever see him again.
We took two spots in the first sitting for dinner and sat with a brother and sister, John and Marnie from Ottawa. 20 and 22, respectively. Their mom bought them this trip for Christmas, meals and all. They are headed to Vancouver to snowboard. She is studying something along the lines of Environmental Science and he is going to school to pull his grades up. He had a B.I.G. t-shirt on.
There is something unforgettable about listening to 'Sunshine' by De La Soul as you fly past sun-fllied forest, the rays only intermittently blazing onto my closed eyes, turning everything pink as the UV passes through the tiny blood vessels in my lids. It is another kind of warmth for me.
And even now, with a full moon above our heads in the clear night sky, we have Grizzly Bear's 'Two Weeks' running through our duel-head phone jack to both of our ears. The moon is astoundingly full and massive. It really is breathtaking.
10:46 Pacific TimeWe're arrived at Katie's now and it feels so good to be here. Vancouver is warm and sunny! We found Katie's amazing apartment easily and now we are resting, playing with the cat and catching up. The last leg of the train was great. The train was pretty much empty after Jasper. We slept easily and awoke with just enough time to wash up, collect our things and jump off.
Katie's little kitten, Falafel, is the most perfect welcoming committee. I am pretty sure that there is nothing that Scott would rather do right now than play with her. So that is nice.
Thanks for all your thoughts and prayers.
xo
anm